Sunday, June 7, 2009

Strawberries, scapes, and our first tomato!


The beginnings of strawberry season, our first garlic scape sightings, and our first tomato of the season have followed one upon the other.

The tomato is fruit of one of the Glacier heirloom started plants that I purchased from Four Winds Farm. Glacier is a known early producer and it had already flowered when I bought it back in May.



Down to seeds and . . . well, at least down to seeds again

Friday night, we attended a nice night out with friends, gathered to celebrate the birthday of our mutual friend, Amy. Linda and I sat at one end of the long table with friend Kirsten and her lovely 3-year old boy, Will. Will and I spent the evening playing with the toy "digger" (backhoe) he had brought along and, since it was a Japanese restaurant, we also had chop sticks, one set modified for him by the chef that had a rubber band hinge on one end that facilitated our using it as a cherry picker for loading lumber (other chop sticks) into a dump truck (my cupped hands ;-)

Sitting with them brought to mind a recent thoughtful favor Kirsten had done for me. She belongs to a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) provided by the Poughkeepsie Farm Project (PFP). Knowing of my interest in local heirloom vegetables, she asked if I might be interested in purchasing some seeds from PFP's City Seeds program which provides an opportunity for local youth (14-24 years old) from Poughkeepsie and Beacon to participate in a local heirloom seed saving project. Of course, I was interested, and I bought the following 6 kinds of seeds (each packet cost $3 apiece):













Early Wonder Beets
Midnight Black Turtle Beans
Magenta Lettuce
Super Lakota Tomato
Prudens Purple Tomato
Gogosari Sweet Pepper (a Romanian variety brought here by one of the PFA members)

I'm probably only going to risk a few of the tomato and pepper seeds this year as it is late to be starting seedlings for them but I'll definitely be planting the lettuce, beets, and turtle beans, hopefully, this weekend. Can't wait to taste the results.

Speaking of seeds, I haven't bought many this year as I had a surplus of seeds leftover from previous years. However, I've been remiss and been putting off buying some Golden Bantam heirloom corn seeds recommended by Lee Reich. There are also a few other types of seed I'd like to buy for late summer planting but I never seem to find the time to complete the list and place the order. I still have some time before I absolutely have to order those other seeds but the time to plant corn is NOW OR NEVER!

So Wednesday night, after I did our food shopping at the local Adam's market, I wandered over to the gardening section of the store on the outside chance that they might have some Golden Bantam seeds. And, sure enough, they did! And they were Burpees's brand. Until then, I hadn't been aware that Burpee's was marketing a line of organic heirloom seeds. Sign of the times, I guess. I scooped up a couple of Golden Bantam packets, one of yellow summer squash, and one of French Breakfast radishes. All packets sold for $2.49 apiece except the radishes that went for $1.79. And I got my Wednesday night Adam's 10% discount!

Get yourself a columbine


We don't plant a lot of flowers around our house. At least not yet we haven't. We have planted marigolds and nasturtiums in the vegetable garden in the past. And we have echinaecia in our herb garden and usually a planter or two hanging from our front porch. And we have yearnings to do more. But so far, we haven't ventured too far into flower gardening. One reason being the futility of it. Our day lilies usually only make it to the bud stage or flower for a few days before they're mercilessly munched down by the local deer. In fact, we planted a bunch of Asian lily bulbs given to us by our dear friend Jodi, ripe with buds ready to flower, only to look out upon their chomped remains a week later. Makes you want to jack deer out of season ;-)

But one of our great flower successes is the result of a happenstance purchase of some columbines at an honor system farm stand near Watkins Glen when we we were returning home from visiting my aunt Bev and cousins Chris, Dave, Mike, and Theresa and their families at their family winery. Linda planted them up close to our house in a flower bed next to our well head and once a year around this time they bloom and provide us with a splendid bit of color and delicate beauty to consider. And the deer don't appear to like 'em! ;-) Just look at how wonderful they are!

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Season's first salad


Last night, we enjoyed our first fresh-from-the-garden salad of the year: baby spinach, baby arugula, mizuna (Japanese mustard green), and some bunching onions (scallions) that had overwintered from last year's garden tossed with store-bought red onion, black olives, and feta cheese. Dressed with a sprinkle of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and fresh ground black pepper. MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!


I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote back in April that my April 13th planting of lettuces and salad greens would be ready in 2-3 weeks. Wishful thinking, I guess (and not reading the seed packet ;-) It's been roughly 5 weeks since planting and though I've been munching on some of the salad greens right out in the garden for over a week now, the lettuces are only just now getting to the point where they can be clipped and harvested. In fact, besides pinching off a leaf here and there to taste, I probably won't harvest any for a salad for another week or two. (Note to self: Plant earlier next year ;-)

However, now's the time for me to think (and act) about succession planting all the lettuces and salad greens that I haven't already -- either with the same varieties or different varieties as taste dictates. I've already planted a second 2 rows of spinach and need to do the same for the rest. Succession planting ensures consistently high quality ingredients throughout the growing season and is one of the mantras of Eliot Coleman's (and really all good gardeners') approach to getting the most and the best out of the garden. As current crops fade, they're replaced by vibrant, tasty, new ones. And one's palate is the beneficiary! I'll be planting new rows of lettuces and salad greens this w/e.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Lee Reich's annual garden and plant sale comin' up May 29-30

Lee Reich, author of several organic gardening and tree growing books (and one of my gardening mentors) holds his annual garden and plant sale on May 29 (5:30pm-7pm) and May 30 (9am-11:30am) at 387 Springtown Road, New Paltz (255-0417).

His ad in the Woodstock Times touts "currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and other delicious fruits, . . . hydrangeas, honeysuckles, . . . and much, much, more". If you're in the area, check out the sale. If you bring a copy of one of his books, maybe he'll sign it for you. Can't hurt to ask ;-)

Tipping point?


Well, it's 34 degrees at 5:25am, having dropped a degree in the 20 minutes that I've been up today. No sign of frost patches on the ground but there is a fine layer of frost on the car windshields that you can scrap off with a fingernail. All my plants are tucked in under 6 mil plastic which should have protected them overnight. Let's hope.

Right now I'm just looking forward to all the good weather that's set to come our way for the next 10 days or so. I think we've finally reached a seasonal tipping point (knock on wood!) with 70 and 80 degree daytime highs and overnight 50 degree lows for the most part coming up. Hurrah! I'll be planting my started plants in their beds this week ;-)

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Four Winds Farm heirloom seedling sale

Photo courtesy of Four Winds Farm
Friday afternoon, I took the opportunity to run down to the Four Winds Farm at 158 Marabac Road in Gardiner, NY for their annual heirloom seedlings sale. Every year, on the third Friday and Saturday of May, Four Winds Farm, certified organic by the Northeast Organic Farming Association of NY, provides a large selection of started heirloom plants for sale. Everything is very reasonably priced: most varieties are available in 4-paks for $4 with some varieties offered as 1-paks for $2. Even though I start lots of heirloom plants from seed at home, I like to go to this seedling sale to find out about and try new varieties. Also, Four Winds' seedlings are weeks ahead of mine in terms of growth so I pick up some of their started plants just because I know they'll be producing before mine.

Friday was a gloriously sunny day making the drive down to Gardiner especially pleasant. I was in a benevolent mood after, along with another concerned motorist, successfully helping an ungrateful snapping turtle cross a very busy Rte 32 between Tillson and New Paltz. When I arrived at Four Winds, overflow cars were parked out on the road and plant-laden customers were making their way down the dirt drive from the orchard above where they had bought their seedlings. I decided to wait a couple of minutes while the young fellow at the foot of the drive used a walkie-talkie to let some cars out so I could drive all the way up to the orchard and park there.

Once out of the car, I walked by the woman selling maple products out of the back of her van and the cage full of brown runner ducklings for sale ($12 for one; $20 a pair) -- I wisely resisted the urge to buy a couple as birthday gifts for Linda but it was tough, they were mighty cute -- to rows of tables with hundreds of started plants: herbs, cukes, tomatoes, peppers, melons, eggplants, kales, lettuces. Alongside dozens of other prospective gardeners, I strolled a couple of times up and down the rows of plants admiring things before grabbing a cardboard carton and loading it up (twice!) before checking out. Here's what my $64 got me:

4 Pride of Wisconsin melons
4 Rocky Ford melons
8 Jimmy Nardello's peppers
4 Cubanelle peppers
4 Ancho/poblano peppers
4 Black Beauty eggplants (I goofed and grabbed the wrong 4-pak, I wanted the Rosita eggplants ;-(
4 Marketmore 76 cukes
4 Glacier tomatoes
4 Beams Yellow Pear tomatoes
4 Oregon Spring tomatoes
4 Opalka tomatoes
4 Aunt Ruby's German Green tomatoes (these are very, very tasty green tomatoes, excellent served on top of fresh mozzarella, sprinkled with coarse sea salt, pepper, and just a touch of olive oil)
4 Wisconsin 55 tomatoes
2 Tasty Evergreen tomatoes

Don't ask me where I'll find the room to plant all of these along with my own started plants! I already know I'll be building new beds to try to accomodate everything.

BTW, I've found Jay Armour, who runs Four Winds Farm, to be a really helpful fellow. In the past, when I've emailed organic gardening questions to him, I've always received prompt, useful answers. Besides producing organic vegetables for community supported agriculture (CSA) customers, his farm also provides organic beef, chicken, turkey, duck, and lamb for sale.

Monday, May 11, 2009

Of things spinach and succession planting


I was carrying on a gardening conversation with my friend Joann via Facebook recently. I mentioned spinach as an early spring crop possibility and she said she'd try it next year. But there's no time like the present and there's no reason to put yourself in a box about only planting once a season in your garden.

It's not too late to plant spinach this year even though you could have started sowing it back in late March. It likes cooler weather better but you can seed short rows (2-4 feet long) of it every week from now until the end of May. This way you get succession crops so when you finish the older stuff, the newer stuff becomes available. Also, once the spinach is up high enough, you can mulch it with straw to help keep the soil cooler and keep it from drying out too fast.

I've also planted spinach much later than the end of May. It's good to experiment and see what works for you. It may bolt but what did you lose if it does? A few minutes of planting and a few feet of your garden for a few weeks? Small price to pay.

A warm/hot weather option is New Zealand spinach which isn't a spinach at all (I think it's part of the onion family) but looks like and tastes like spinach when cooked. It also grows like crazy and only a couple/three plants will keep you in it. You can order it from online organic seed companies like Fedco.

Succession planting is one of the credos of one of my two gardening book mentors: Eliot Coleman (the other is Lee Reich). In his books (I have Four Season Harvest and The New Organic Grower), he recommends that you not relegate planting of a crop to the beginning of the growing season but to think of growing seasons as fluid where sowing and harvesting can overlap and be used to extend the harvest and maintain the freshness of your garden vegetables. In Four Season Harvest, Coleman provides a nice table of recommendations for succession planting summarized here:

Beans Every 2 weeks
Beets Every 2 weeks
Carrots Every 2 weeks
Celery Twice: early spring and three months before fall frost
Cucumbers A 2nd and 3rd planting at monthly intervals to keep quality high
Lettuce/greens Every week or two
Peas Twice: early spring and mid-summer
Radishes Every week
Spinach Every week in spring and late summer.
Squash A 2nd and 3rd planting at monthly intervals to keep quality high

My cousin Chris, the vintner at his family's winery, Lakewood Vineyards, and avid gardener turned me on to Eliot Coleman's books and methods. Coleman advocates low impact, quality yield organic growing methods that anyone can adopt and extend as their own. He farms in coastal Maine so he knows about late springs and early falls and how to adapt to grow and harvest crops all year long. And to prove that Coleman's suggestions work, my cousin Chris showed me his cold frame: the one he was dusting snow off of when he harvested salad greens in February! More on cold frames in a future post ;-)

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Last gasp?


Time to cover up! Patchy frost forecast for tonight and probably tomorrow night. According to the Cornell Cooperative Extension, last spring frost date for our area is May 10 so frost appears to be overachieving this year ;-) I'll be covering my beds and some trees with 6 mil plastic tonight and tomorrow night just in case. Hard to believe that we had 4 days of 90 plus weather only a couple of weeks ago and a muggy day of thunderstorms just yesterday.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Raised beds and imported organic soil


Several years ago, when I started my vegetable garden, I settled on using raised beds due to the poor soil quality on our property. Basically, we have clay and rocks for soil so I needed to improve it with various soil amendments like fertilizer and peat moss. Things really took off in my garden when my office mate at work, Charlie, offered me a truckload of several year old horse manure. I mixed the manure with the soil I had and made mounded, raised beds to plant in. The next year, to improve my soil and build more raised beds, I bought an organic mix of topsoil and compost from McEnroe Organic Farm. The soil itself isn't terribly expensive ($41 per cubic yard these days) but add in the trucking fee and each 5 cubic yard truckload ends up costing you nearly $400. So far, I've justified the cost (and my carbon guilt over having organic soil trucked 50 miles to my house) by rationalizing that gardening is my one true hobby and that great soil produces great tasting vegetables. Once I start producing enough compost for my garden on my own, I'll no longer need to buy soil and/or compost and I'll be able to return to my more naturally frugal, greener approach to life.

There are pluses and minuses to growing in raised beds. Hot weather plants (for example, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers/chiles, melons, squash, and eggplant) can thrive in them because they definitely heat up more quickly than the surrounding soil. But, because of that, they also tend to dry out quicker and so are not the best choice when it comes to water conservation. And, of course, plants that like it cooler (for example, peas and spinach) may require some mulching with straw to cool off the warmer soil in a raised bed. For me, I had the choice of doing a full replace of my rocky, clay soil or building raised beds on top of them. Raised beds saved me some work.

BTW, I found out about McEnroe's Organic Farm through a book Linda had given me as a present: Keith Stewart's It's a Long Road to a Tomato. The book is a collection of Keith's writings for The Valley Table magazine which is a publication dedicated to local food, farms, and cuisine in the Hudson Valley. Keith was in his 40s living in NYC, working as a corporate project manager, when he decided to go back to the land. He purchased a farm in Orange County and over time, became a full-time organic farmer and he currently sells his produce at the Union Square farmer's market in NYC. It's a great read, a great story of a return to the land complete with beautiful drawings (by his partner Flavia Bacarella) and lots of insight and tips for the organic farmer. Every year, Keith trucks in McEnroe's organic compost to start his vegetables in. Check it out!

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Bistango, 29th and 3rd, NYC. Great Italian food and optionally gluten-free

Bistango photo courtesy of and copyrighted by Douglas Tait
A week ago Friday, Linda and I had the wonderful occasion of getting together with some old friends from my bartending days in Albany. We met at Bistango in NYC located on the corner of 29th St and 3rd Ave. I hadn't seen this group of friends for around 20 years: Cool Chris and Caryn were in from London, Mad Mark and Amy drove down from Rockland County, Jumpin Joe lives uptown in the city and he was the one who suggested and arranged our reservation at Bistango.

When we arrived in this soft-lit, sparely decorated yet elegant restaurant, Joe was drinking a dark beer that I hadn't seen before and I asked what it was, he said it was Green's, a Belgian sorghum beer. When I hear sorghum beer, I immediately think of my good buddy Danno who requires a gluten-free diet that avoids all wheat and related grains containing gluten in his food and drink. And, sure enough, Joe, like Danno, practices a gluten-free diet. In fact, he chose Bistango not just for its first-class Italian food, but also for its optional gluten-free menu. Not only does Bistango serve gluten-free food if you request it, they actually have a separate cooking station in the kitchen devoted to gluten-free food preparation so there's no chance of contamination.

On to drinks and the Italian food: Linda had her current standard Tanqueray and tonic with half tonic/half club soda while I settled on a Samuel Smith's Taddy Porter which appeared to be on tap. As Joe is a regular at Bistango, we relied on his recommendations. For an appetizer, Linda and I shared the Melanzane Involtini (Baked eggplant rollatini with ricotta in a tomato sauce). It was excellent, cheesy but delicate and split two-ways, just the right amount before our main course. When I ordered it, I mentioned that we were going to split it and two half-portions arrived at the table. Classy service!

For main courses, Linda had the Filetto di Vitello con Funghi (Veal scallapini with mushrooms) and I had the Filetto di Salmone (grilled organic salmon in a lemon, capers, and white wine sauce). The veal and mushrooms arrived in a well-balanced brown sauce, just rich enough to complement the earthy flavor of the mushrooms. Linda enjoyed her dish with a nice, medium-bodied Montepulciano. My salmon was perfectly cooked and the sauce was yummy, just the right amount of acid to balance the creaminess of the salmon and its reduced sauce. Typically, I'm not a fan of capers but I ate every last one of them.

We passed on the dessert but others at the table indulged and they looked tasty. Of course, coffee, expresso, and capuccino were available as well as an assortment of after dinner drinks. The after dinner drinks were especially generous. Sambuca seemed to be the choice of the evening and each snifter arrived with a minimum two-finger pour. Folks were impressed. We were a big party of 16-18 and Bistango treated us to a complementary round of Italian port to round out the meal. Bravo! Prices are reasonable ($10 for our appetizer and $22 and $20 for our main courses, $60 total per person including tax and tip - how do they do it for that cheap in NYC?). What a night out! Great friends, great food and drink. I'd go again in a minute ;-)

Special gluten-free beer shout out to my good buddies, Danno and Joe:

I found this Green's beer selection review on BNET, originally from the
Oakland Tribune:

"Now there's even a selection of gluten-free Belgian ales. The brand name in the United States is Green's, made by De Proef in Lochristi, Ghent, Belgium. They're being imported by Merchant du Vin, the pioneering Seattle-area importers of beers such as Samuel Smith and Lindemans Framboise. Green's ales are made with a combination of rice, millet, sorghum and buckwheat, none of which contains gluten. The yeast is Belgian; the hops are European, Magnum, spicy Saaz and Hallertau; some of the beers have a dollop of sugar added to boost fermentation. All are bottle-conditioned; a bit of fresh yeast is added to each bottle so fermentation continues slowly in the bottle, an ancient method of preservation. Green's Quest Tripel (***) is a strong, 8.5 percent alcohol by volume blonde beer with a big white head and intriguing, yeasty nose. Taste is unusual; full mouth- feel, but surprisingly light on the tongue. There's this interesting sweetness. Treacle, the word Brits use for molasses, comes to mind. It's the sorghum, a taste that some of us like in beer and some do not. Sorghum beers are extremely popular in Africa. Green's Endeavor Dubbel Ale (***) is a very Belgium dark ale. At 7 percent ABV, it's got a kick. It has a nose much like an English ale: yeast, toffee and caramel notes. Quite tasty, again with the odd treacle note. Green's Discovery (**1/2) is quite drinkable: Medium body, with that distinctive sorghum note. These may not be beers for every palate. But if you're one of the millions of adult celiac suffers[sic] who like beer, they're definitely worth trying."

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Early spring planting


This past Monday, April 13th, I did my first plantings of the 2009 gardening season (not counting last fall's garlic planting). I directly seeded lettuce, salad greens, and spinach into some raised bed boxes that I finished building over the weekend.

I'm experimenting with bed boxes this year to contain my raised beds and keep them from their otherwise inexorable crumbling and flattening out into the paths between them. I also hope to use bed boxes as a base for cold frames that will fit over them. The cold frames will protect the early lettuce, salad greens, and spinach from overnight temperatures that are still hovering around freezing in these parts. I should be able to build and install my cold frames this coming weekend. In the meantime, I'll protect my plantings with plastic pulled over the raised bed boxes every night.

My beds are 3 feet wide and 18 feet long. Here's what I planted so far:

Five 4-foot rows (actually 47 inch rows ;-) spaced 6 inches apart of the following (seed company is in parentheses):

Crispino Green Iceburg Lettuce (Fedco)
Winter Density Bibb/Romaine Lettuce (Fedco)
Lollo Rossa Cutting Lettuce (Fedco)
Black Seeded Simpson Lettuce (Fedco)
Buttercrunch Bibb Lettuce (Fedco)

Another five 4-foot rows spaced 6 inches apart of the following:

Arugula (Bonus Pack)
Claytonia (Fedco)
Minutina (Fedco)
Sorrel (Fedco)
Early Mizuna Japanese Mustard (Fedco)

And another two 4-foot rows spaced 6 inches apart of:

Bloomsdale Long-Standing Spinach (Livingston)

All these lettuces, greens, and spinach love the cool early spring weather. I'm actually late in planting them. Friends of mine have had theirs planted for a week or two or more but I waited until I had my bed boxes built before I did my planting. Next year, I'll be that much more ahead of the game. In any case, in 2-3 weeks, if we don't encounter any setbacks, we'll be eating fresh organic greens from the garden. No more store bought, industrially grown, chemically treated salads. We'll be free of that stuff until next fall ;-)

Garlic (and sorrel) rules in green!


Behold the garlic! Nearly all of the nearly 200 cloves of garlic that I planted last fall (between mid-October and late November) are up and thriving as you can see in this photo of one section of my garden. They had been hiding under the snow during our especially cold winter this year and now, freed from their white insulation, they, along with some of last year's sorrel crop (see below), are providing the 1st bits of beautiful greenery to grace this year's garden. They're months away from being harvested (in mid to late July) and even months away from providing wonderfully crunchy scapes (beginning in June) for this summer's salads and stir frys but just looking at them in all their green finery brings me hope and joy for the garden season to come.


And, check out this sorrel! It wintered over under the cover of a clear plastic drop cloth. We had some in our salad a couple of nights ago. Tender, lemony goodness!

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Can spring be far behind?


                                   Fig leaf

Friday, January 9, 2009

Nutty, garlicky, peppery lentil salad

The other day my friend Rachel over at THE CRISPY COOK provided a
spicy lentil chili recipe that sounded great. It got me thinking about a lentil salad I used to make using a recipe I found in a Sonia Uvezian cookbook. I just had to make a batch.

Here are the acknowledgements and the recipe:

Sonia Uvezian
The Book of Salads: An International Collection of Recipes
Drawings by Wendy Wheeler
101 Productions, San Francisco


Lentil salad

(Serves 4)

1 quart water
2 tsp salt
1 cup lentils
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
2 scallions, finely chopped, including 2 inches of green tops
1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbs finely chopped parsley
6 Tbs olive oil or vegetable oil
2 1/2 Tbs red wine vinegar
Salt, freshly ground black pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste
2 hard-cooked eggs, cut crosswise in thin slices (optional)
1 small sweet onion, cut crosswise in thin slices and separated into rings
Parsley sprigs

1) In a heavy saucepan, bring the water and 2 tsp salt to a boil over high heat.

2) Add the lentils, reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer about 25 minutes or until the lentils are just tender, not mushy.

3) Drain thoroughly and place in a salad bowl.

4) Stir in the onion, scallions, garlic, and parsley.

5) Beat together the oil, vinegar, and salt, pepper, and cayenne with a fork or whisk until well blended.

6) Pour over the salad and toss lightly but thoroughly with a fork. Cover and chill.

7) Serve garnished with the egg slices, onion rings, and parsley springs.


Leo's notes:

One of the keys to this dish is to cook the lentils just so. I constantly taste the lentils while they're cooking to make sure they don't overcook. What you want is a chewy, nutty consistency. If you overcook them, they get mushy and the salad suffers greatly from it. Once I'm happy with their consistency, I quickly take them off the heat, drain them, and pour cold water over them to stop their cooking further.

I also up the garlic count in this recipe anywhere from 3-4 cloves to as many as 6 cloves. Nutty lentils with lots of garlic is an awesome combo for me. And, while I am careful with the cayenne pepper, this dish really benefits from using a free hand with the freshly ground black pepper. For the garnish, I use red onion for its mild taste and to add another color to the dish.

It's a great recipe and I get to use some of our home grown garlic and some parsley from the parsley plant I dug up in early November and transplanted into a clay pot that's now sunning itself in our dining room.

Hope you enjoy this one as much as I do.

Machaca chili with Guinness and chipotles
Jan 2009 Foods and Flavors of San Antonio
chili contest winner!

This chili is a synthesis of two distinct recipes: one for machaca, or shredded beef, and the other a fine chili recipe that I modify in several different versions depending on what I have on hand and what kind of mood I’m in.

I first heard of machaca beef in the mid-'70s from my friend Ken. He and his wife Sandy had moved from LA to NYC and I met them when they came up to their weekend home in our little town in the Catskills. Whenever Ken waxed poetic about the Mexican food he missed, particularly the legendary machaca burritos, it made my mouth water. Many, many years later I came across this recipe in one of Leo’s cookbooks, The Feast of Santa Fe by Hartley Dent (Simon and Schuster). Hartley remarks that Mexican cooks generally reserve the magic machaca term for sun-dried beef, but I believe this recipe is as close as I’m ever likely to get to the real deal in my home kitchen.

Machaca beef (hand-shredded beef)

2-3 pounds beef brisket (trimmed of all excess fat)
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1-2 garlic cloves, chopped (I invariably use more – at least 4 of our homegrown)
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon black pepper (fresh ground is best)
½ teaspoon cumin (ground or whole)
Vegetable oil

Preheat oven to 325. After trimming excess fat from the brisket, rub the beef with a little vegetable oil (I use olive oil). Then rub the beef thoroughly with the mixed spices and pat the garlic and the onion all over the beef to finish. Wrap the meat in heavy-duty foil, making sure that you have a tight seal all around. Place the package in a baking dish and bake for 2 ½ to 3 hours, until the beef is tender enough to fall apart. Low and slow is the way to go here.

When the beef is fork-tender, unwrap the top of the foil package, push aside the onions, and place the meat close to a broiler flame. Allow to broil only until the top surface begins to look dry and is starting to brown. Remove from the broiler and let the beef cool. Shred it into long shreds with your finger, then store them in the refrigerator (for up to a week), or freeze for later use. Note: shred the beef as fine or thick as you like; you can also cut the shreds to your preferred length. But DO use your hands for the authentic machaca effect.

Now that you have your wonderful hand-shredded beef, you’re ready to put it into service as the star of your. . .

Machaca chili with Guinness and chipotles

(this is our adaptation of Jane Butel's Esquire Fortnightly's Eastern Establishment Chili published in her book, Chili Madness, Workman Publishing, New York)

2 cups dried black beans (you can substitute canned black beans if you’re in a hurry, but the dried beans contribute a lot to the texture of the final product)
1/3 cup olive oil
2 large onions, coarsely chopped
6 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped (if you like, you may roast these and peel them – this adds another layer of flavor, but is not necessary)
2 tablespoons dried basil
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons “good” chili powder (good chili powder should contain only ground chilies, oregano, cumin, etc. It should not contain any additives, like garlic or onion powder)
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 ½ chipotle chilies in adobo sauce
2 tablespoons masa harina (fine corn flour)
2 large cans tomatoes with their juice (crush by hand)
½ cup Guinness stout (or strong freshly brewed coffee, or other liquid of your choice)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. If using dried beans, place them in a bowl, cover with water and soak overnight.

2. Pour the beans and their soaking water into a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour or until tender. Stir occasionally.

3. Heat the oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until the onions are translucent. Stir in the green peppers, basil, bay leaf, chili powder, cumin and chipotles. Cook for about 1 minute, then add the masa harina and cook for 2 minutes longer. Keep stirring – don’t burn the masa!

4. Add the reserved machaca beef to the pot with the tomatoes and their liquid. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer ,uncovered, for 1 hour or longer. Stir occasionally.

5. Stir in the salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings. Add the Guinness or coffee and simmer, uncovered, for another hour.

6. Add the beans to the chili and simmer, uncovered, for another half hour.

If you like to experiment, you can try blending your own chili powder using dried chilies (I get mine at the health food store), oregano, and cumin, and other spices.

This chili recipe is our entry in January's Chili Cook-Off Challenge hosted on Gloria Chadwick's Foods and Flavors of San Antonio Web site.

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Sleepy time time


Pictured to the right is the current desolate state of our garden. Only the fence, trellis poles, assorted pots and buckets, and remains of last year's crops (that I never got around to cleaning up) are visible now. But under that icy blanket of snow are nearly 200 cloves of garlic (16 different varieties) that I planted this past fall, beginning around Columbus Day and continuing until just before the ground froze solid in early November.

It doesn't take much to plant garlic, just some cloves of garlic and something to dig a 2-3 inch hole to plant them in (I use my thumb ;-) I prepared the soil first by spreading about an inch of compost over the beds. I have 3 foot wide raised beds so I planted 3 foot sections of 4 rows each with 3 cloves per row (1 section for each variety), spaced the rows and cloves 5-6 inches apart, marked each section with short sticks, and noted the placement of each variety in my garden journal so I know what comes up where next year.

Don't ask me to explain the differences of each variety since I can't say much more than that some are more spicier than others, that the very great majority of them are hardneck garlic, and that they all taste great and store well. Some day, I'll sit down with friends and we'll do a taste test of them all and see if we can categorize them but all that's fodder for a future post.

Once I planted all the garlic, I sprinkled some bone meal (garlic loves phosphorus for root growth) over the rows of planted garlic, covered the entire bed with straw to insulate it for the long cold winter, and then gave it a good watering. Don't worry if some of the garlic sprouts over the fall or winter (some of those that I planted earliest did sprout this year) because the garlic sure don't mind.

Last year, I planted 70 cloves of garlic (10 each of 7 different varieties) and 69 developed into beautiful garlic heads that I harvested by the 3rd week of July (see them drying on our porch in the photo). I planted them all within a week of Columbus Day. This year I got behind in my planting schedule and planted garlic all the way into November. I'm curious to see if that will cause any problems. Next year, I might try planting earlier (if I have the space). I read in Lee Reich's book, Weedless Gardening (Workman Press, New York), that he recommends planting garlic in late summer. He says and I quote: "It's commonly recommended to plant garlic in late fall, but when cloves are planted earlier, they establish more roots before growth is arrested by the cold. An abundance of roots keeps the plants well anchored into the soil through winter, and can fuel more growth next spring."

One of the other things I've heard about growing better garlic is that planting big cloves of garlic will yield big heads of garlic and I always try to follow that rule. However, I also overheard a garlic vendor at last year's Hudson Valley (Saugerties) Garlic Festival say that big garlic comes from planting garlic in 4 inches of compost and changing where you grow your garlic crop every year so I guess good soil and good gardening practices count, too ;-) But, in general, all interested in growing garlic should read and heed The Twelve Steps to Growing Great Garlic (which I originally found on the The Garlic Store Web site but doesn't seem to be there anymore):

Twelve Steps to Growing Great Garlic

12. Always start with quality planting stock. Plant the biggest cloves - they yield the biggest bulbs. Eat the smaller ones!

11. Planting in fall is best, though many have good luck with early spring planting. Full sun preferred.

10. Garlic likes friable soil, near neutral pH, with some composted manure. Incorporate a little bone meal at planting.

9. Plant cloves about 5-6 inches apart and 2-3 inches deep.

8. Mulch your garlic with straw, alfalfa, leaves, etc. Don't worry if shoots emerge during winter.

7. Keep the soil moist. Don't let it dry out, even during the winter.

6. Garlic hates weeds!

5. Garlic likes a few foliar feedings in spring, but do not fertilize after early June.

4. If growing hardnecks or elephants, cutting the scapes just as they start to curl will increase bulb size.

3. Harvest when the leaves on the lower third to half of the plant have largely turned brown.

2. Be sure to cure your garlic by hanging in shady, well ventilated place for 3-4 weeks.

1. Then, Enjoy Garlic and Enjoy Life!

Sounds good to me!

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Pleased to meet you, hope you remember my name


Hi, my name is Leo and I farm a small 30' by 40' organic garden in the mid-Hudson Valley of New York State for fun and fresh vegetables. One of my great joys of the growing season is to walk around my garden before work, morning cup of coffee in hand, to see what came up out of the earth or blossomed overnight. The miracle of plants growing never ceases to amaze and gratify me. By the end of the summer, I've worn a path around the garden fence.

Keeping a garden is a family heirloom for me. Both sets of grandparents and my parents tended gardens before me and, though I showed little interest in doing so until recently, I adopted this family avocation after years of suffering the tasteless tomatoes and other sad products of industrial farming available at the market. Now, we grow and eat all kinds of vegetables fresh from the garden to our table. We couldn't be happier (or sadder when the harvest is done).

My girlfriend Linda is a great cook and she always finds ways to incorporate the harvest from our garden into the dishes she makes. I'm hoping she'll use this space to share her culinary successes with the rest of us!